Category Archives: Tour

Moscow Tour Report- Part 5: Impressions of Contemporary Moscow

While in Moscow, our musicians had a little bit of time to explore the city before their performances on Friday and Saturday nights. Below, violist Daniel Strba offers an interesting perspective of how Moscow has progressed since his last visit there, over 20 years ago.

Impressions of Contemporary Moscow
By: Daniel Strba

Red Square historical museum and Kremlin wall at night

Red Square Historical Museum and Kremlin wall at night

I was excited to learn that The Houston Symphony had been selected to perform two concerts in Moscow at the “Festival of the World’s Symphony Orchestras.” For me, this meant a return to Russia where I had performed with Sir Georg Solti and The Chicago Symphony in 1990 just prior to the collapse of the USSR. Back then, 22 years ago, things were bleak. Signs of the Soviet Union’s imminent downfall were everywhere. Restaurants were few and far between, and CSO was cautioned to eat only at the new Marriott hotel where we were staying. Shops had little inventory and Moscovites stood in blocks-­ long food lines. What a difference two decades has made!

I could not help being impressed by the changes the new oil wealth has brought the Russian people. Upscale designer shops like Prada and Armani flourish, and a plethora of ethnic restaurants line the once neglected streets. Moscow is a wild combination of crumbling Soviet-­era buildings and brand new sparkling glass skyscrapers. The constant rush-­hour traffic is not to be believed!

Moscow GUM and St. Basil's Cathedral

Moscow GUM and St. Basil's Cathedral

The orchestra had a free day on Thursday, so my colleagues Fay and Mark Shapiro and I trekked to the Novodevichy Cemetery, an exquisite sculpture garden where Russia’s elite artists and heroes are buried. The trip was a pilgrimage of sorts to the grave of Dmitri Shostakovitch (the HSO performed his 11th Symphony on Saturday night). Finding individual graves was a challenge because all of the headstones are distinguished in the Cyrillic alphabet. Aided by an English map, our hunt began. Our search was complicated because sections of the cemetery were marked, but the individual rows were not. This meant that we had to meticulously count each row to find our target. Eventually, we did find Shostakovitch’s grave along with many others including Serge Prokofiev, Anton Chekhov, Leo Tolstoy, Nikita Khrushchev, Mstislav Rostropovich, and David Oistrakh.
Bolshoi Theatre at night around 10 PM

Bolshoi Theatre at night around 10 PM

It was a whirlwind tour, and it’s sure good to be back in the U.S.A!

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Mosccow Tour Report- Part 4: Successful Shostakovich!

Here at the Houston Symphony, we are fortunate to have wonderful musicians who are also wonderful writers, willing to share insights from their personal experiences and performers. Below is the third and final blog post submitted by Mark Hughes, Principal Trumpet. It was written shortly after the orchestra finished its second and final performance as a part of the “Festival of the World’s Symphony Orchestras” on Saturday night. As you read, you will notice how much the audience’s participation means to our musicians while they play. If you, as an audience member, ever think that all you’re doing is just sitting there, think again!

Successful Shostakovich!
By: Mark Hughes

I am safely back in my room and looking forward to two hours of sleep before we start our trip home. Tonight’s concert was a performance to remember! The Doctor Atomic Symphony by John Adams is always a treat to play for me and the other brass principals because Adams chooses to give the important solo lines from the opera (by the same name) to the Tuba, Trombone, Horn, and Trumpet soloists. While a difficult piece, it allows us brass principals an opportunity to get a bit more exposure than we are usually afforded. What a pleasure it is for me to share the stage with Dave Kirk, principal tuba; Allen Barnhill, principal trombone and William (Bill) VerMeulen, principal horn. Three of the best in the world at what they do!

Vodka Boys

Men and their Vodka! From l-r: Allen Barnhill, principal trombone, Mark Hughes, principal trumpet, Dave Kirk, principal tuba, William VerMeulen, principal horn

After intermission, the orchestra performed our first piece of Russian music on the tour. While the audience here has been very attentive, you could sense the increased excitement of the audience in hearing an American orchestra interpret some of their music. Those in the balcony were literally leaning over the railings and as I looked out over the audience, I was reminded of something I have heard Dave Kirk (tuba) say before, “We could hear them listening!” The orchestra responded with a beautifully inspiring performance of the Shostakovich Symphony No. 11. Any time 100 or so people are of a like mind, you are going to have quite a momentous product. But when you add the subject matter of the 11th Symphony to the current political environment here in Russia, you are just ratcheting up the emotional impact that is possible in such a performance. And that is obviously what occurred.

While standing ovations are common in the U.S., they are extremely rare in Europe, and Russian audiences tend to behave like those in Eastern Europe. In fact, one of our more experienced musicians told me that this orchestra has never received a standing ovation on any European tour before, but that is exactly what happened tonight. European audiences frequently show their pleasure after a concert by clapping in rhythm, but this night, they were on their feet demanding more from this American orchestra. After several curtain calls, Hans turned to the audience and spoke to them in Russian, announcing that we would play another piece of Russian music, the Baba-Yaga by Liadov. Immediately, you could hear the pleasure the audience felt in the selection of the encore. Afterward, the orchestra received several more curtain calls and again Hans led the concertmaster off the stage, indicating that the concert was indeed over.

Ladies with Roses

Violinists Emily Herdeman Kelly and Sarah Ludwig with roses from members of the audience!

After the concert, the festival treated us to a wonderful dinner at our hotel. After several heart warming speeches by the presenters, Hans and new Board President Bob Peiser both thanked the presenters and the orchestra for all of the work involved in making this trip possible. Much merriment followed and now all we have left to do is to make our flight home and prepare for this week’s concerts at Miller Outdoor Theatre.

See you on Friday night!

Mark Hughes

More photos from our time in Column Hall

Crew with the Roster

Donald Ray Jackson, stage manager, Steve Wenig, orchestra personnel manager and Kelly Morgan, assistant stage manager, going over the concert roster

View of empty Column Hall from Stage

View of empty Column Hall from Stage

View of the Stage

View of the Stage

Column Hall Chandelier

One of the many gorgeous Column Hall chandeliers

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Moscow Tour Report- Part 3: Red Eyes in Red Square

One of the downsides to touring is the lack of time the musicians have to adjust to different time zones. Anyone who has traveled abroad is familiar with the intense fatigue that is a fact of life during one’s first few days in another part of the world. It was this sleepiness that lead some of our musicians to find that there is, indeed, Starbucks in Moscow!

Starbucks in Moscow!

Starbucks in Moscow!

Below, Mark Hughes, Principal Trumpet, describes what it is like to perform while completely disoriented by the variance in time zones, but how good music and a good meal can make it all worth while.

Red Eyes in Red Square
By: Mark Hughes

For my second blog entry, I’d like to let everyone know that being on tour is not all “fun and games.” Many of my orchestra colleagues and I continue to struggle with adapting to the vast time difference here. There are times that you need to sleep and can’t, and other times when you are falling over into your soup! This, of course, is common with anyone traveling great distances. However, it does seem very strange to be performing when your internal clock thinks it’s early morning, and that you’re playing after staying up all night!

Exterior of Column Hall

Exterior of Column Hall

Speaking of performing, that is what we are here to do and we started things off last night playing for a packed crowd in the lovely Column Hall located in the House of Unions. Last night’s program included Mozart’s Prague Symphony (No.38) and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 9. The concert was well received, and after countless curtain calls, the strings of the orchestra performed the lovely Cassation No. 1, movement 3 by Mozart. It was the perfect nightcap following the huge meal of Bruckner. After several more curtain calls, Hans led our Concertmaster, Frank Huang, off the stage, signaling to the audience that the music was over for this evening.

Orchestra Rehearsal

Rehearsal Time in Column Hall

In between yesterday’s morning rehearsal and the evening performance, we had a few hours free. Many of the musicians used this time to visit Red Square, which is what many Americans think of when we think of Moscow. Red Square is where the Kremlin is located. There are many other amazing things to see there as well, including Lenin’s tomb, the Jum (a large mall), a Museum of History, and my favorite, St. Basil’s Cathedral. While touring the inside of this magnificent piece of architecture, I was fortunate to hear a quartet of men singing in an attempt to sell their CD’s of a Capella sacred works. Below is a brief video of this impromptu performance. If you listen carefully at the end of the video, you will hear the bass holding out a pedal C for several seconds. (For many years, Russian choruses have been known for their basses!)

Cafe Puskin Main Course

Cafe Puskin Main Course

Earlier, I mentioned falling asleep in my soup, but actually I was falling asleep in my Borsch! A couple of evenings ago, I was able to go to the famous “Cafe Pushkin” with several of my fellow orchestra foodies. Bill VerMeulen, Chris Schubert and Sasha Potiomkin (all great cooks themselves) had planned an evening there that I was allowed to join. The evening included a tour, as well as the many courses of French influenced Russian peasant fare. Sasha was our interpreter and adviser, which made the evening a lifelong memory! Below is a photo of my main course for your mouth watering pleasure :) .

Till next time, Bon Appetit!

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Moscow Tour Report- Part 2: The Untold Story of the Cargo’s Journey

Musicians in front of St. Basil's Cathedral

Symphony Musicians and travel companions in front of St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow

Often, when we see a performance by an ensemble from abroad, we think of how far the musicians have traveled to be there, and what that must be like. But sometimes we don’t realize just how big of an undertaking it is to transport an entire orchestra -and their instruments- to another continent. Below, Violinist Alexandra Adkins describes the untold story of the cargo’s journey.

CLICK HERE to stream the concert LIVE from Moscow at 10:00 AM Friday and Saturday mornings!

The Cargo’s Journey
By: Alexandra Adkins

Musicians in Moscow

Musicians in Moscow. From l-r: Mark Griffith- Percussion, Meredith Nelson-Huffman, Brian Del Signore- Principal Percussion, Matthew Strauss- Percussion, and Terry McKinney

Our orchestra on tour is accompanied by lots of cargo; instrument shipping trunks, wardrobe trunks, special chairs and so on. The musicians were fortunate to head to Moscow Tuesday on a 12 hour nonstop flight, but our cargo had a more extensive journey. According to stage manager Donald Ray Jackson, it is a four day process that began immediately following the Ima Hogg performance on June 2nd. The symphony truck was loaded up that night and headed for IAH, where Sunday morning he and assistant stage manager Kelly Morgan began building seven container pallets from the various instrument and wardrobe trunks. It is a complicated puzzle to make the pallets the size that will fit in the cargo hold of a passenger plane. Every piece is X- rayed before loading. Donald Ray and Kelly travel with our shipment every step of the way. Our cargo arrived Monday afternoon in London, where it was offloaded and transferred to a climate controlled warehouse until the Moscow flight Tuesday morning. Due to a size issue with one of our containers, some of our cargo was delayed, thus everything did not arrive in Moscow until 3:00 AM Wednesday morning. Clearing Russian customs, disassembling the pallets and loading up trucks for transport to Moscow’s Hall of Columns took the next 18 hours, and finally at 11:30 PM Wednesday night our four very sleep deprived Houston stage crew members began the two hour load in to the hall– assisted by Russian crew– so that our instruments would be available for individual practice on Thursday morning. Donald Ray and Kelly are now catching up on their ZZZ’s in the subway, on the bus, and anywhere else they can find a quiet corner!

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Moscow Tour Report- Part 1: Sleepless in Moscow

As the saying goes, “there is no rest for the weary!” Hot on the heels of our 11-12 season’s end, we at the Houston Symphony packed our bags and headed over to Moscow. We arrived safely on Wednesday and will have a little time to gather our bearings and familiarize ourselves with our surroundings before our performances on Friday and Saturday evenings as a part of the “Festival of the World’s Symphony Orchestras.” We are excited and honored to represent the United States as the first ever American orchestra to perform as a part of this festival!

Over the next few days, several of our musicians will be sharing their photos and thoughts from Moscow. Below are some photos from our journey thus far, and some thoughts from Mark Hughes, Principal Trumpet.

As you will notice, Mark mentions the wonders of the Internet in his post, and we have another Internet marvel to share: we will be broadcasting the concerts LIVE from Moscow thanks to our friends at KUHA! CLICK HERE to listen to the concerts at 10:00 AM Central Time on Friday and Saturday mornings!

Airport Crowd

Who doesn't love navigating a crowded airport?!

Sheldon Person

Jacek Muzyk, Associate Principal Horn, settling in for a long flight- 11.5 hours!

Musicians on plane

Percussionist Mark Griffith and Associate Principal Cellist Christopher French look excited for the journey!

Dinner in Moscow

Once safely landed, some musicians share our first meal in Moscow... Italian food!

Sleepless in Moscow
By: Mark Hughes, Principal Trumpet

Well, we made it to Moscow, safe and sound! After a long flight of about 11.5 hours, we retrieved our luggage and herded to our busses for the 2+ hour bus trip to our Hotel/home for the next 4 days. As advertised, the traffic in Moscow is seriously bad! I know we all like to complain about traffic in our home city, but this is pretty amazing! As we drove in, I also felt “functionally illiterate,” because there is almost “Nyet” English here. While not surprising, it still makes one feel a tad vulnerable, to say the least!

After checking into the hotel, I met many of my fellow orchestra “comrades” at the very nice grocery store that is next door to the hotel. While things are quite expensive, you can see the great changes that have come to this country during our lifetimes. Shelves were fully stocked with everything you could want and my first experience with being a consumer in Moscow came with no real difficulties!

After a quick bite, and a short practice session, I face-timed with my wife Marilyn. The Internet is truly amazing! (Thank you Al Gore :) ) Then I crashed!

Unfortunately, after about 5 hours of sleep, I find myself fully awake and “Sleepless in Moscow!”

Moscow View

View of Moscow at 5:00 AM

Here is a shot from my hotel room window at around 5:00 AM. While overcast, you can still see that sunrise comes before 5:00 AM. And if you’re wondering, sundown is after 10:00 PM.

Till next time,

Mark Hughes

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